Reviewed by Sarah Firshein
Why did this hotel catch your attention? Occupying a grand, elegant building in the heart of Washington’s Penn Quarter, Riggs doesn’t need to do much to announce its presence. The architecture alone catches the eye—just as it should, as one of the last remaining Romanesque Revival buildings in the city. Hanging over the main entrance, a sign bearing the name “The Riggs National Bank” hints at the property’s fascinating backstory.
What is the backstory then? The first U.S. property from Lore Group, the hospitality firm behind Sea Containers London and Pulitzer Amsterdam, Riggs lives in an 1891 former bank that serves as both namesake and design inspiration. Twenty-three former U.S. presidents came here to wheel and deal, stepping into the very same sweeping, barrel-vaulted elevator bank that has now been gloriously restored. The personal-finance theme starts at the reception area—marked by a stately L-shaped desk reminiscent of a teller counter—and continues in various ways throughout the 181-room property. Before Lore Group gave the landmarked building a redo, it had been a Courtyard by Marriott.
Tell us all about the rooms. Any tips on what to book? Classic rooms are large and lovely, with swirly wallpaper and headboard fabric designed by the firm Voutsa. But we got even more room to spread out in the Louisa Adams Suite—one of four specialty suites inspired by four former First Ladies. Here, Lore Group creative director Jacu Strauss let loose with a yellow-and-black color scheme and elements that reference Adams’s love of concerts, including a baby grand piano. (Pro tip: Play it in your PJs.) The minibar was tucked into a large, rectangular steel “safe” with a brass plaque of Juno Moneta, the Roman goddess of money, emblazoned on the front. Bathrooms were awash in Carrara marble, sleek chrome hardware, and navy pinstripe wallpaper.
Drinking and dining—what are we looking at? With massive windows on two walls, 22-foot ceilings, original marble columns, and diverse seating areas, the all-day Cafe Riggs works just as well for a morning coffee as it does for a special-occasion dinner. At the helm is Patrick Curran, a Momof*cku alum who elevates soft-scrambled eggs with quinoa and pepper relish and drenches seemingly humble broccoli in a sesame-garlic vinaigrette so good that it could convince a toddler to finally eat something green. The menu will likely delight locals (who can visit anytime) and guests who stay for a while; if you’re only in town for weekend, you might find yourself wondering how to try as many things as possible over the course of a short visit.
Downstairs, meanwhile, Silver Lyan is the first U.S. venture from the international bartending superstar Ryan Chetiyawardana (AKA Mr Lyan). Here, tucked into what used to be the vault, "Maraschino cherries" for martinis are concocted via a process called reverse spherification, and Guinness is served in Champagne flutes. But you can just as easily order anything else, be it a spritz or a glass of wine, and settle into the chic subterranean space. And be sure to take a good look at the physical menu itself—we won’t ruin the surprise, but the design is just as clever as the high-concept co*cktails.
And the service? Service seemed overall solid: friendly, personal, and attentive. No single staff-member stood out, but no complaints, either.
What about the neighborhood? What else is here? Well-trafficked by tourists and locals alike, the Penn Quarter/Chinatown area is where several major Metro lines (including the Red line, which zooms over to Union Station in a matter of minutes) converge. The National Portrait Gallery is kitty-corner across the street; like all Smithsonian museums, it’s free, making it a clutch lunchtime excursion. Also within a stone’s throw: great shopping and dining that suits the everyday (Shake Shack, The Smith) as well as splurge meals (MiniBar by Jose Andres). Most of the other hotels in the neighborhood are larger chains.
Is there anything you'd change? Strange as it is to complain about a Barcelona Daybed—one of Mies Van Der Rohe’s seminal furniture designs—our suite could have benefitted from a more traditional (read: comfortable) sofa. And delightful as it was to have an uncomplicated in-room thermostat, ours was programmed not to dip below 68 degrees—that could be a real issue for cold sleepers, particularly in Washington’s notoriously hot and humid summers.
Any other hotel features worth noting? The most pilfer-worthy item in the room is the Riggs-branded umbrella, which pops open to reveal the same pattern as the headboard fabric. There’s an 1,800-square-foot gym with Peloton bikes and a 2,500-square-foot rooftop event space.
Bottom line: Why are we choosing Riggs? Washington’s hotel boom is approaching fever pitch—the city has recently welcomed locations of Thompson, Conrad, and Generator. Even stalwarts like Rosewood and Dupont Circle are sporting brand-new looks. There are more options now than ever before, but Riggs’s exemplary design, destination dining, and whimsical details—all within the confines of landmarked architecture—makes it an instant standout.
